Understanding Prebiotics & Probiotics

Probiotics, prebiotics, microbiome, bacteria, are all buzzwords when talking about gut health. What are they and how do they function together to keep our pets healthy?

Explained most simply, prebiotics are a food source for probiotics, the healthy bacteria living in a pet’s intestinal tract, making up their gut microbiome. It’s a delicate symbiotic, micro relationship designed to facilitate whole body health, starting in the gut. There are prebiotics and probiotics in some of the foods our pets eat every day, but how do you know if it’s enough? When should you offer supplements? Should they be used every day?

Prebiotics
Prebiotics are soluble indigestible fibre that act as a food source for the microflora in your pet’s gut. Feeding the good bacteria in the digestive tract allows them to proliferate so they can make easy work of digestion of food, absorption of nutrients, disease prevention and help to maintain overall health. Feeding a variety of prebiotics ensures that these helper bacteria can thrive in a pet’s microbiome.

Probiotics
Probiotics are healthy living organisms (bacteria) making up the first line of defense against harmful bacteria. They do this by growing and thriving in the digestive tract, leaving no room for the bad bacteria to colonize. A diverse and well-populated bacteria population is critical to your pet’s health. These helpful bacteria residing in the gut make up to 80% of a pet’s immune system, so supporting this health epicenter is one of the best ways to mitigate and even prevent disease.

How do Probiotics Benefit our Pets’ Overall Health?
Supplementing with probiotics is known to benefit pets that suffer from:

– Allergy symptoms / Leaky gut
– Urinary tract infections
– Chronic yeast infections
– Diarrhea, constipation, and bowel diseases
– Flatulence
– Bad Breath
– Obesity

When offering a prebiotic / probiotic supplement, the goal is to improve the natural environment in the gut making it easier for the bacteria in the gut to do their job.

Your pet’s environment, and even the food they eat impacts their gut microbiome – either working to support health or unintentionally destroying the good bacteria, increasing risk of illness and disease. Most notably, feeding a processed food diet, high in starch and preservatives, supports the growth of harmful bacteria. Use of antibiotics and other medications, contact with pesticides, harmful household cleaners and other environmental toxins also negatively impact your pet’s gut health and can cause dysbiosis. Dysbiosis is the process by which good bacterial colonies decline, allowing pathogenic bacteria to steal nutrients and create a harmful imbalance in a pet’s microbiome, leading to illness.

When choosing a probiotic supplement, it’s important to look for one that offers many bacterial strains – with beneficial bacteria, it really is the more the merrier. A healthy and balanced microbiome hosts thousands of different bacteria families and microbes. Each bacterial family thrives best on a different diet, which is why offering prebiotic variety is important. Offering multiple healthy fibre options ensures the gut bacteria have food which keeps the microbiome thriving.

Simple Ways to Support Your Pet’s Microbiome:
– Limit exposure to environmental toxins like harsh cleaners, and all the -cides (pesticides, herbicides, fungicides)
– Feed a species-appropriate fresh food diet
– Feed probiotic-rich foods
– Feed prebiotics alongside the probiotics

Most pets can benefit from some added probiotics and prebiotics. Collectively called synbiotics, they are a power duo for your pet’s gut health, which is why they should both be found in digestive supplements for dogs. Kelp, spirulina, and guar gum are common prebiotics found alongside strains of Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium, two gut-healthy bacterial families living in your pet’s microbiome. Thrive Pro-gut is a synbiotic supplement containing both prebiotics and several strains of each beneficial gut bacteria. Supplementing with probiotics could be the simplest part of your pet’s care routine, with the biggest benefit.

If you’re looking to try adding some whole food prebiotic and probiotic options to add to your pet’s bowl, give some of these a try:

Prebiotics Probiotics Blog Chart

Thrive Pro-gut – 8 bacterial strains and added prebiotics for maximum gut benefit. Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Lactobacillus Plantarum, Lactobacillus Caseium, Lactobacillus Bulgaricus, Lactobacillus Rhamnosus, Lactobacillus Brevis, Bifidobacterium Bifidus, Bifidobacterium Longum, Saccharomyces Boulardii.

Raw Fermented Goat Milk – contains 2 bacterial cultures and is unpasteurized, making it the perfect choice for helping with minor digestive upset. Lactococ-Cus Lactis, Leuconostoc Mesenteriodesand

*Tip
– offer both probiotics sources for maximum benefit.


When Should You Offer Pre and Probiotics to Your Pet?
Every pet’s needs are different and a probiotic that works for one pet, may not work for another. If a pet’s small intestine is fully colonized or even overcrowded with bacteria, adding probiotics usually makes digestive symptoms worse. This condition is called SIBO (Small Intestine Bacteria Overgrowth) which is known to account for up to 80% of chronic digestive issues in humans – more research needs to be done for our pet counterparts.


There are Several Instances When Offering Probiotics can be Extra Beneficial

– Offer starting several days in advance of a stressful activity (vet visit, competition, travel, boarding)
– Offer in advance and during an antibiotic regimen prescribed by your vet
– During a diet change to aid the transition
– Offer 2-3 times weekly for a small boost

It’s important to note that probiotics are NOT digestive enzymes. Digestive enzymes are proteins that do the work of breaking the food down, making them usable, or digestible. Unless your pet has been diagnosed by a veterinarian with pancreatitis or EPI, your pet should not be given large doses of digestive enzymes regularly.

References:

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0195561621000127?via%3Dihub

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S019556162030111X?via%3Dihub

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22440414/

https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/12/8/2189


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Tips for Transitioning Your Adult Cat to Raw

Considered an obligate carnivore, lacking the enzymes that break down carbohydrates, cats even more so than dogs, can benefit from eating a fresh food, species appropriate balanced raw diet. It’s true that some fresh food is better than none and that it’s never too late to start introducing some fresh food into your cat’s diet or to make the switch to raw. Cats are known for their pickiness, and even if they don’t embrace the new tastes and textures immediately, they can learn to love eating raw, but it can take some patience, persistence, and trial and error. 

Unlike dogs, cats are known for imprinting on food at a very early age. Meaning that if they didn’t try it when they were young, chances are that anything new later might not be accepted with any type of enthusiasm, though this isn’t always the case. Even their mother’s diet and willingness to eat different foods, has been proven to play a significant role in a kitten’s food preferences.  

Many cat owners choose to free feed, simply leaving food out to let their cat graze throughout the day. Though it is convenient, it’s not the healthiest option as cats fed a high-carbohydrate diet are prone to obesity and when left out, can lead to overeating, and in the long term, diabetes. Perpetuating the problem, to keep cats eating, kibble contains special ingredients designed by scientists, called palatants, or flavour enhancers, whose sole purpose is to entice a cat back to the food bowl. The flavour coating on each otherwise tasteless, extruded kibble bit is what the cat becomes accustomed to. Some cats don’t immediately try raw the first time it’s offered because the scent, flavour, and texture are not familiar, and it is not being recognized as food. No wonder kibble is often referred to as “kitty crack”. 

If you’re ready to start feeding raw, and you’ve never attempted it before, the best thing to do is just offer it. At your next scheduled mealtime, in place of the kibble offer some Fare Game Chicken & Salmon with Beef, or another Fare Game recipe in their bowl that you think they might enjoy. If your cat devours it, and some do, the transition period is over! Your new raw-loving cat is sure to go crazy for each of our 6 Fare Game recipes enjoying proteins like chicken, beef, salmon, sardine, lamb, pork, rabbit, duck, quail, and even kangaroo. 

If your cat doesn’t eagerly accept that first raw meal, perhaps a more gradual approach is needed. It’s best to start with a poultry-based meal – they’re easiest to digest. In this case, your transition week might look something like this: 

  • Day 1–2: 25% Raw, 75% Kibble 
  • Day 3–4: 50% Raw, 50% Kibble 
  • Day 5–6: 75% Raw, 25% Kibble 
  • Day 7: 100% Raw

If your cat refuses a meal after you’ve just increased the raw portion of the meal, go back to the previous step, and stay there for a few more days and then try adding slightly more, at a later date. This transition period, for some cats, can last a few months or longer, and that’s okay. Patience and persistence are crucial. In this regard, cats are similar to human toddlers – the first time they try something it might be less than delightful, but if you keep offering it, a lot of the time, they learn to enjoy it. 

Or perhaps you’ve tried feeding your cat raw in the past, but have not been successful in your cat enjoying the meal, we have some tips to share. 

  • If you’re currently free feeding, switch to scheduled feeding times – this can be the number one roadblock to success when transitioning cats. 
  • Transition to canned and then to raw. For some cats, the texture is part of their reluctance to try raw and canned, moist food could help bridge the gap. You can then take the gradual transition approach and mix the new raw diet with the canned a little at a time. 
  • Add some raw fermented goat milk. It contains natural probiotics and most cats LOVE it. Just mix a bit into the raw or partially raw meal. 
  • Place a small portion of the raw food beside their normal food in the food dish. Just having it there, and smelling it, may pique curiosity enough to give it a try. 
  • Offer the food at room temperature. A lot of cats don’t prefer cold food and if it’s warm, it also has more aroma that can help entice them to eat. 
  • Sprinkle on some extras. If your cat likes tuna water, liver treats, etc., use just a little to get them closer to the food in the dish. 
  • Try hand feeding. Some cats will willingly lick food off a finger before trying something new in the food bowl. 
  • Try feeding other new cat-friendly foods like a piece of cheese, eggs, a little bit of cottage cheese, a canned sardine, or even some of your uncooked ground beef. 

We know that raw is the best diet for your pet carnivore but what should you do if your cat simply refuses to eat it? I will be the first to tell you, this is a battle of wills that you will not win, and this is where persistence and patience come into play. It might not have worked this time, but you can always try again. The diet that domestic cats have eaten the past hundred years has caused their liver to adapt by developing a special metabolic pathway to metabolize the extra, unneeded glucose, causing them to be unable to fast. A cat used to eating carbohydrate-loaded kibble, and then being deprived of food, can see rapid and dramatic jumps and dips in their blood sugar, causing potentially serious health complications. The tough love approach that can work for many dogs, can be quite dangerous for a cat. 

We hope these tips and tricks help your cat learn to appreciate a real, fresh food diet. Some cats surprise their human slaves and accept their new raw diet with gusto while others take months to fully make the transition. Either way, the benefits are great and real.  

Do you have some additional tips that worked for your transition? Let us know!

NEW to our Fare Game lineup February 2023:
Fare Game Kangaroo & Lamb & Fare Game Chicken & Beef 


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Pain Management

Pain, it’s something that we never want our pets to experience. However, every pet, at some point in its life, will have pain for one reason or another. Whether it be a minor injury from rough play, surgery, or joint disease, there are natural remedies that can offer some relief or even mitigate the cause of pain in our pets.

Do you ever wonder if your pet is experiencing pain, and you don’t even know it? Although domestic pets have evolved to our lifestyles over hundreds of years, that “survival of the fittest” instinct remains intact. Both dogs and cats can be very good at hiding discomfort. With chronic diseases, such as osteoarthritis, pain develops more over time, so the very subtle changes can often go unnoticed. Cats may start interacting a little less, grooming habits can change, their facial expressions can become different, developing a bit of a “grimace”, or they can become more vocal. Dogs may start to become anxious, breathe a little faster, sleep a bit more or have changes in their appetite, posture, and bathroom habits. Diagnosing pain in pets is one of those times when you really, really wish they could talk!

Many vets will commonly recommend NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), but these medications certainly don’t come without risks. Long-term use can cause kidney and liver damage, digestive upset, and even bleeding ulcers or perforations of the stomach and intestines. Thankfully there are natural aids that can prevent or ease pain in our pets in a more harmonious manner.


Switching to a Raw Diet
For humans, eating highly processed food combined with high carbs and sugar, is linked to many chronic diseases, including inflammation (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29772560/ , https://www.uchicagomedicine.org/forefront/gastrointestinal-articles/what-foods-cause-or-reduce-inflammation). Even the Arthritis Foundation, for Pain Awareness Month, advocates for how much the diet can impact inflammation and pain. The importance of avoiding highly processed food, including overly processed meat and carbs impacts the inflammatory response in the body: like the Maillard reaction. This is a chemical reaction very present in kibble that will create, under heat and high pressure, a complexes molecules made of protein and sugar bound together called Advanced glycation end-products – these molecules are highly unstable, pro-oxidant and can even act as toxins in the body and their impact on inflammation and oxidative stress is well documented (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16244820/, https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20031340/). Since kibble is a mix of carbs and protein, extruded at very high temperature, creating a crispy and brown product, it is as rich as it can be in these highly inflammatory molecules (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23916186/, https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25088431/.

By simply switching from a kibble diet to a raw diet, and eliminating the reaction that creates these harmful end-products, there will be a great reduction of inflammation in the body. In fact, dogs and cats eating a raw diet will excrete less than half of those end-products in their urine, showing the major impact of the processed diet on the absorption of those molecules (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32279406/ ). Choosing a raw diet that is low in carbs and high in antioxidants, will have an even better impact. Like the Big Country Raw Dinner formulas, rich in high quality meat, combined with superfoods like blueberries and broccoli!

For pets who are already on a raw diet, but experience pain due to aging or injuries, there are some simple and inexpensive food bowl additions that can offer great benefit.


Thrive Joint Support
Thrive Joint Support is a powerful aid, consisting of glucosamine, chondroitin sulfate and MSM. The combination of these three ingredients are well known to help prevent and alleviate pain from joint disease and dysplasia.

Glucosamine is a naturally occurring compound made of glucose and glutamine, that is essential for the maintenance of healthy cartilage and joint function. It stimulates the growth of cartilage cells and is known to aid in joint lubrication increasing comfort and mobility.

Chondroitin is the largest glycosaminoglycan (GAG) found in cartilage. It helps to increase water retention and elasticity in the cartilage, promoting adequate shock absorption and nourishment of the tissues that line the joint. Like glucosamine, it may also inhibit inflammation that can compromise joint health and impair overall pet comfort and mobility.

MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane), can help reduce muscle damage, along with pain and stiffness. MSM can also inhibit inflammatory responses in the body, thereby reducing stress on the immune system. MSM also increases levels of glutathione, an antioxidant that boosts the immune system.

We recommend using Thrive Joint Support for medium to large breed puppies and dogs especially, from 8 weeks and on, to aid in the prevention of joint disease. Maintaining the joints of an active dog is paramount to healthy and pain-free mobility.


Thrive Green Lipped Mussels
Green lipped mussels are a shellfish native to New Zealand, and they get their name from the green edges along their shell. They contain several anti-inflammatory compounds that can help prevent and eliminate pain from conditions like arthritis. Arthritis is commonly recognized and treated in our older dogs, but often overlooked as it develops in young dogs, although it affects 20% of dogs over the age of one year, and 80% of dogs over the age of 8. It also affects up to 90% of cats over the age of 12.

Green lipped mussels are a rich source of omega 3 fatty acids (EPA and DHA) and also contain chondroitin. They are currently the only known source of the omega fatty acid ETA (eicosatetraenoic acid), which binds with cyclooxygenase, an enzyme that causes inflammation. ETA can provide equivalent pain relief to NSAIDs. Green lipped mussels are also a good source of selenium, zinc, copper, and manganese.

Green lipped mussel powder is safe for dogs of all ages, and because of its safety profile, giving green lipped mussels from a young age can be beneficial to maintaining healthy joints and delaying the onset of arthritis. The effects of green lipped mussel on canine osteoarthritis is highly documented, with tons of studies noting its effect on reducing pain in dogs, often in just weeks.

 

Bone Broth
Bone broth is rich with glycosaminoglycans, such as glucosamine, and abundant in chondroitin and hyaluronic acid. Glycosaminoglycans stimulate cells called fibroblasts, which lay down collagen in the joints, tendons, and ligaments. The best benefit to bone broth is that the glycosaminoglycans are resistant to the harsh acids and pH of the digestive tract and are absorbed in their intact form. Not only is bone broth delicious and extremely palatable, but it’s also a wonderful way to add quality moisture to any type of diet. Bone broth is often fairly thin at room temperature but will thicken when chilled in the fridge due to the amazing properties of the collagen compounds. Bone broth can be drizzled over any meal as is, or frozen into small portions for easy serving as a treat.

Thrive Golden Paste
Turmeric is an ancient Indian spice that has been used for thousands of years for its healing properties. Curcuminoids, which are what gives turmeric its bright yellow colour, are also what is responsible for its reported anti-inflammatory and pain relief properties which it is so loved and known for. Turmeric on its own isn’t easily absorbed, however when made into golden paste, becomes very bioavailable and far more effective for our pets. Golden Paste is best served in small amounts and frequently, so offering daily will offer the most support. For pets that are sensitive to the taste of turmeric, we recommend mixing into meals before serving or freezing in a mold along with something else they love like Goat Milk or Bone Broth as examples.


Omega Oils
You may have heard about fatty acids like omega-3 (ALA, EPA and DHA) and omega-6 being essentials for pets. Dogs and cats are not able to produce these on their own which is why supplementing with a quality source is considered so important for overall health and wellness. Omega 3 and 6 contribute to healthy skin and coat, growth and development including cognitive function, health of joints, mobility, including reducing inflammation.

More precisely, in animal studies, omega 3 polyunsaturated fatty acids reduced the expression of inflammatory markers, cartilage degradation and oxidative stress (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30081198/) as long as the correct omega 3: omega 6 ratio was maintained (1:5). Knowing that most meat can naturally be as high as 1:30, adding extra high omega 3 ingredients to the diet is essential. In canine trials, adding fish oils to the diet had significantly reduced the symptoms of osteoarthritis pain (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26161757/).

By reducing inflammation in our pet’s joints, we are acting preventatively which is in their best interest, versus waiting to offer support once an issue or injury has occurred. Offering fresh omegas that have been stored properly is always ideal and will be of the greatest benefit.


Raw Bones

Raw meaty bones are excellent for many reasons, but did you know that certain raw bones are wonderful sources of collagen and glucosamine too? Poultry feet such as chicken and duck feet are naturally rich sources of collagen and glucosamine, containing connective tissue. Necks, such as chicken and duck, are also a great resource. Additional meaty bones have a valuable place in the diet but should always be fed in moderation, meaning raw feet and necks should be offered 2-3x per week at most. Overall, a valuable contributing factor to joint health, and an extremely affordable and popular choice to include for our pet’s wellbeing on a regular basis.

Taking the preventative approach, offering a variety of inflammation-reducing additions to the food bowl, can bring well-rounded support, especially in cases where pain is more severe or frequent. Fish oil, for example, will help with reducing inflammation while Joint Support will target pain relief and cushioning of the joints, making them both great daily additives to meal time. Offering this support consistently is another important factor as daily support will be continuous, versus sporadic which will not have the same results. Some pets may find they prefer the taste of green lipped mussels better while others will find Joint Support more palatable with additional pain relief factors. It is important to observe and find what works best for your pet as each individual pet’s needs can vary. For best results, try rotating supportive sources for maximum coverage and comfort. Your pet will thank you!


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Feeding the Canine Athlete

By Julie Lauzon, agr, MSc, Pet Nutrition
(Updated from a previous blog)

There are many sports that we can practice with our dogs. Even if many only practice as weekend warriors, it is possible that your passion brings you and your dog to a more professional level. At this competitive stage, small details will make a difference with regards to muscle strength and endurance of your dog. Just as in human athletes, there are many ways to help your dog perform better, with targeted training and diet, but that’s where the resemblance ends. It should be noted that a dog’s metabolism is very different than ours. From preferred energy source to hydration, adjustments to their diet promoting endurance and muscle growth are very different than in humans.

Key Definitions:
Carbs – More or less complex structures made of glucose
Glucose – Form of sugar used for transport
Glycogen – Glucose storage for animal
ATP – Energy for cells
Glycerol – Part of fat structure (paired with fatty acids)
Aerobic – Need oxygen
Anaerobic – Do not need oxygen
Stamina – Capacity for a prolonged effort
Glucogenic – Use of glucose (from glycogen or protein) to create ATP, can be both aerobic and anaerobic
Ketogenic – Use of fatty acids or protein to create ATP, only aerobic

The Dog’s Muscle Type and Preferred Energy Source
The main difference is due to the type of muscular fiber dogs have, which is different from ours and even from cats! Understanding how those muscle fibers work, what their purpose is, and how they “prefer” to get their energy, will help us optimize the diet. Without going into too much anatomic detail, it is important to know that there are three types of skeletal muscle fiber (used for locomotion). They vary in proportion depending on species. Some, such as dogs, only have two of the three fiber types. Fibers are classified according to their ATP creation preference. ATP stands for adenosine triphosphate and is the energy at a cellular level. As it will be described later, we can ingest energy in different forms that will, under different metabolic pathways, be transformed to ATP so the muscle cells can use it. The first fiber type prefers the use of oxygen to create energy (aerobic). The second type can create energy with or without oxygen (aerobic and anaerobic). Finally, the third type is most efficient in creating energy when there is no oxygen available (anaerobic). The first two types of fiber can use carbs (glucose), fat and protein as their source of energy, while the third type strictly uses what is called a glycolytic pathway. This means it can only use glucose as its energy source.

Dogs do not have the third fiber type, this is one of the major differences from us. This means that all their muscle fibers have a strong aerobic capacity. This will have a major impact on what type of energy source will be preferred for their metabolism. Before going deeper into what muscle uses which energy and why, let’s talk about energy sources. I’m sure that, just like many others, glycerol, glycogen, glucose, etc. all sound the same.

Energy Forms – From the Food to the Muscle Fuel
Back to basics! There are three major nutrients that dogs (and humans) eat, serving as energy sources to the body: carbohydrates (glucose), fat and protein. There is a wide variety of these nutrients, each stored by the body in different forms. For both humans and dogs, the body will store fat as fat, protein as protein or fat, but will not store carbs as carbs. Carbohydrates will be transformed primarily into glycogen for storage as glucose, either in the liver or muscles and all the extra carbs will be stored as fat. The body stores carbs as glycogen, which is a fast energy source. However, glycogen’s storage capacity is quite small compared to fat storage capacity. When glycogen storage is full, the extra glucose is stored as fat for use as a long-term energy source. Glycogen is the glucose storage of animal, which can be compared to starch, starch being the glucose storage of plant.

When there is a high energy demand, the body (for both humans and dogs) will break down glycogen to create the fuel – ATP. Once all the glycogen is used, the body switches to alternative sources of energy. For the human body, this is 100% true. What is also true for the human body is that if you can build and promote glycogen storage, or provide glucose during a physical exercise, you will increase your stamina capacity. If there is more glycogen available for a longer period, your muscles will be able to rely longer on this energy source. Science has shown that these last two affirmations are not true in dogs, as will be explained later.

Now back to energy storage and how the body uses fat and protein as an energy source instead of glycogen. When the body needs energy, the signals also go into the fat and the protein storage. To become an energy source, proteins will be broken down in amino acids and converted to glucose by the liver. Not all amino acids can be converted to glucose – alanine and glutamine are the preferred ones. When energy is created from glucose, either from glycogen storage or protein storage, it is called the glucogenic pathway.

The signal will also reach fat storage, inducing breakdown into two parts: free fatty acids and glycerol. These two components will then travel to the location where energy is required and will be able to generate ATP as well. The metabolic pathway for the creation of energy from free fatty acids and glycerol, is called the ketogenic pathway. The ketogenic pathway requires oxygen, while energy created from glycogen – glucogenic pathway – can be done anaerobically. Fun fact, fat oxidation (ketogenic) can create 3X more energy than glucose oxidation. Some protein can also be involved in the ketogenic pathway, and the two preferred amino acids for this energy conversion are leucine and lysine.

Glycogen is used by anaerobic muscle tissue for a fast and strong contraction. Since the storage of glycogen is limited, this muscle type will lose their energy source quickly. Those muscles are involved in sprints and jumps, but less in endurance exercises, while aerobic muscles can rely on long term energy storage like fat or protein. They will be slower but will be able to work for a long period of time.

It is important to understand energy conversion processes because it will guide us in the specifications of a diet for your furry athlete. We could go even deeper into metabolic pathways, but you understand enough now for the purpose of this article.

Here’s what is important to remember: Carbs in the body will be stored as glycogen, while the extra will be stored as fat. Glycogen is the fastest (most easily accessible) energy source, but the storage is limited. Fat and protein will be stored as they are, efficient long-term energy sources to be used by endurance muscles.

Ideal Proportion of Fat, Protein, and Carbs for the Athlete Dog Diet
There are some very important differences between dogs and humans that we need to take into account. Based on the information provided above, it would be logical to think that dogs will also use all the glycogen available before jumping to fat and protein as energy sources. Therefore, one would assume building glycogen reserves would be a great way to increase the stamina. However, that would be forgetting that the main muscle fibers in dogs are aerobic, and therefore, are naturally more adapted to use protein and fat as energy sources. Studies have shown that at rest, muscles use aerobic energy sources; 20% from free fatty acids and 30% from glucose. When the dog performs physical effort, the proportion of glucose utilization will decrease to 10% and the free fatty acid proportion will rise to 70% of the energy source. This fraction will change with the intensity of the physical effort. If the dog is closer to maximum effort over a short period of time, the utilization of glucose (from glycogen or protein) will increase at the detriment of fat – still on the aerobic pathway. During physical exercise, dogs will rely on an anaerobic source of energy for the first 7 to 15 seconds of effort and will then move to aerobic energy sources after 30 to 60 seconds, even if there is still glycogen available. Therefore, feeding a high carb diet with the purpose of potentially increasing glycogen storage and stamina is not applicable to dogs. In addition, feeding higher fat diets have been proven to spare glycogen storage and improve stamina.

According to the NRC, higher carb diets (over 38% carbs) have also been shown to lower the concentration of red blood cells in the body. Red cells, being the oxygen transporters, means high carb diets can also impact stamina. If there is less oxygen arriving to aerobic muscle, the energy conversion slows down. There are studies that have shown very active dogs, such as sled dogs, can rely 100% on protein as their glucose precursor. The liver will convert certain amino acids to glycogen, making it available as an anaerobic energy source for short, intense physical effort.

To summarize, this doesn’t mean your dog can’t benefit from some carbs in their diet, but the amount and time of feeding is important. More importantly, carbs shouldn’t be added to the detriment of protein and fat. The addition of carbs could help dogs having a hard time building fat storage on protein and fat diets alone.

For dogs doing sprints or acceleration only (maximum effort for a short period of time) here’s what the diet breakdown should look like: minimum 30% of metabolizable energy coming from fat, minimum 24% from protein, and maximum 45% from carbs. For other sport dogs, like hunting, traction or other sports involving more aerobic energy sources, the diet breakdown should be: minimum 50% of the metabolizable energy coming from fat, minimum 35% from protein, and maximum 15% from carbs.

It is also important to consider body condition score and excess weight as a major component in sport performance. Being overweight increases the risk of injuries and joint issues. We now also know that obesity is mainly linked to high sugar diets (glucose and starch) – eating a lot of those carbs increases the secretion of insulin, promoting storage of glucose in fat, decreasing the effect of leptin, the satiety hormones. This is called leptin resistance – the body’s never-ending circle of being hungry and stocking fat as consequence. Feeding a low carb diet to the canine athlete promotes stamina and reduces the risk of obesity.

Time of Feeding
Two other important factors in feeding your canine athlete is time of feeding and hydration. Dogs should never engage in physical activity directly after a meal. In fact, in studies made on sled dogs, results indicated that dogs that fasted but had access to water, performed better than dogs who ate right before the physical activity. Dogs should be fed a very small meal the morning before a physical activity, only if that meal is at least 3-5 hours before the start. If not, then it is better that the dog doesn’t eat at all. Also allow your dog to cool down for a couple of hours before feeding a main meal of the day. Dogs can eat once daily without any issue.

Hydration; Dos and Don’ts
Regarding hydration, it is the complete opposite, and may be the most important part of feeding the canine athlete. According to the few available studies done with sporting dogs, sled dogs that have fasted for several days but are well hydrated perform better than dogs that have eaten their fill the day before but have not drank enough before, during and after physical exercise. This means that all the effort put into the diet and training of dogs can be reduced to nothing by the simple factor of inadequate hydration on the day of performance.

Blood is mostly made up of water. We can therefore say that water is largely responsible for the transportation of red blood cells and therefore oxygen (essential during physical exertion) as well as waste material. Water also plays an essential role in terms of thermoregulation – the body’s ability to regulate its temperature. This is another essential regulatory aspect when practicing a sport since physical effort leads to an increase in body temperature.

Dogs will regulate their temperature through panting and sweat glands in their paw pads and noses. Their loss will mainly be water – not electrolytes like us humans. Feeding electrolytes to dogs that have not lost any through vomiting or diarrhea can cause major damage to renal function long term. According to the NRC, offering solutions containing electrolytes, glucose and protein does not lead to better hydration or performance. These “solutions” can even cause diarrhea in some individuals. Also, according to the NRC, the blood sodium and potassium content remain the same during normal physical effort and increases only during prolonged physical effort. We must therefore avoid providing more. The dog’s saliva composition will increase in sodium, chloride, and magnesium, but the total loss is negligible. Majority of hydration loss will be through the paws, and this loss is only water, so water is the only thing your dog will need!

As it relates to minerals, sporting dogs will benefit from a diet higher in some minerals like calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, as well as B vitamins. In fact, sporting dogs should not be fed “adult” food, as the minimum nutrient requirements are too low to meet their needs. Athlete dogs require a diet closer to the nutrient profile of growing puppies and should be fed an “all life stages” food.

It is also important to note that dogs will need water throughout their physical performance. Do not wait for your dog to be thirsty, because dogs will often feel the need to drink once dehydration is well advanced. At that point, they will drink a huge amount of water potentially creating digestive issues. Water loss during exercise is a continuous process, while many dogs drink water only occasionally. Don’t hesitate to offer water on multiple occasions during physical performance. If needed, add enhancers (that do not contain too many electrolytes), like goat milk, bone broth, or simply drop a couple treats in the bowl!

This article should give you many tools to help increase your dog’s performance this summer in your favourite sports, but don’t hesitate to reach out if you need further support for your canine athlete!


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Spring into Allergies

By Julie Lauzon, agr, MSc, Pet Nutrition

Spring is a beautiful time of year: days are longer, temperatures are warmer, and everything that was white and grey now goes back to green! For many, including our pets, spring also means allergies are back in full force…

We often associate allergies with food, but environmental allergies, unlike food allergies, are very hard to avoid. Despite the difficulty, there are tools that can be used to prepare your pet’s immune system and overall health. This can be done to inhibit reactions and hopefully reduce the use of medications.

Immune Health is Linked to Gut Health
When snow is melting and the temperature rises, everything smells stronger and is much more appealing to your dog – fresh grass, rotting plants, defrosting poops… These temptations lead to gastrointestinal issues. What Is the correlation between digestion issues and allergies? The fact is that immune health is directly linked to gut health. Spring should be considered a critical time for both digestive issues and environmental allergies.

Be Proactive When it Comes to Environmental Allergies
April is a great month to start giving probiotics and other digestive supplements like Thrive Pro-Gut or Fermented Goat Milk. When your pet’s gut is packed with a large variety of healthy bacteria and microbes, they experience fewer opportunities for digestive upset. Eating wet soil and animal poop means your pet will ingest a significant number of microbes – if there is space for them to settle down and grow in your dog’s intestines, this is when we notice issues such as loose stools and even vomiting. Food becomes harder to digest because the good bacteria are overtaken by bad bacteria. This puts huge pressure on the immune system as it battles against harmful invaders in the gut. The immune system can be more prone to reacting to any possible threat, including environmental allergens such as pollen.

Giving probiotics regularly during the spring months, from April to June, is a great way to support your pet’s optimal health. Supervising your pet’s outdoor adventures is also essential to make sure they are not tasting every smelly thing they find outside.

Some dogs can still develop environmental allergies, getting itchy ears, paws, and/or belly. Another great preventative is Thrive Bovine Colostrum. Bovine Colostrum isn’t the “active” ingredient. The colostrum itself is not a source of antibodies and do not directly impact the allergic reaction. However, Bovine Colostrum interacts with the immune cells entering the intestine. The partially digested immune factors “communicate” with the system, helping to regulate it. By giving Bovine Colostrum early, you can significantly reduce the possibility of allergic reaction.

Did you know that, by simply offering raw food to your pet, you are already preventing allergies and inflammatory skin reactions? There are studies that show feeding a raw diet will help in the prevention of dermatitis. Including whole fish, fish oil and some plant-based oil in your pet’s diet can also be very beneficial for skin health.

Bovine Colostrum impact on dog immune system:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23773360/

The role of gut microbiome on immune system:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31993446/

Positive effect of probiotics on gut microbiome and immune functions:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28721546/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12672936/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33102555/

Studies on how raw may help prevent allergies and dermatitis:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17845618/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33178726/


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New Puppy? We Can Help With That!

By Julie Lauzon, agr, MSc, Pet Nutrition

8 Weeks – 6 Months

First, Congratulations on Your New Puppy!
You’re at the start of a wonderful adventure and we wish you many years of love and health together. You are reading this blog because you are a well-informed pet-parent who wish to offer the best nutrition possible to your puppy, and we would like to support you in your journey of raw feeding for the life and health of your dog.

Feeding raw to your dog has many advantages. The very first thing you’ll notice is during the potty training stage that raw fed puppies produce a lot less poop than kibble fed puppies. Not only is there less, but the texture is much more firm making clean up much easier, especially in the case of an accident in the house. Because raw has no added salt, most raw fed puppies drink less water making it easier to train them to pee outside. Pointing to other health benefits later in life, there are also more and more studies supporting the early life raw diet for the health of skin and joints, cancer prevention and overall gut health (see blog about weaning puppies onto raw for reference).

During the first few days with your new puppy you may notice a reduced appetite and loose stools. These effects are not necessarily a result of the diet, but more likely a result of stress because of the huge life changes. Be patient, things will return to a healthy normal soon. You can offer our Raw Fermented Goat Milk and Thrive Pumpkin Powder to support any digestive upset, and to increase interest in food. Feeding the same proteins as the breeder can also help with the environment adaptation.

What Should I Be Feeding?
Until your puppy is 4-5 months old, the amount of food to offer will seem huge compared to you puppy’s current weight. The reason for this is that there is no such thing as puppy food when feeding raw: it is simply whole food put together with no filler!

Puppies should be fed at will, or 10% of actual weight, which should correspond roughly to 2% of their expected adult body weight. This means that your puppy, usually around 12-16 weeks old is eating their full adult portion of food daily. We recommend feeding 3 meals daily until about 6 months of age because they are growing rapidly and need a more constant supply of calories than a full-grown dog. If your puppy seems to be excessively hungry at mealtime and a little on the lean side, the best thing to do is to feed a little more. If you are noticing an increase in body condition score, or an excessively pudgy puppy, reduce a little. Obesity in a puppy is just as harmful as malnutrition.

In raw feeding, variety is key! We recommend a rotation of 3-5 Dinner recipes per month, a combination of red meats and poultry. The more variety you offer at a young age, the less likely your dog will become a picky eater or suffer from neophobia – the fear of new food. Offering a huge protein rotation also helps eliminate the risk of developing food intolerances or allergies.

Feeding Raw Bones
Did you know that you can already be offering raw meaty bones to you puppy? Your breeder (if they fed raw) may have already offered some meaty bones at 7-8 weeks old because they know that the younger your dog learns how to chew on raw bones correctly and safely, the easier it will be to feed them bones once they’re an adult! For now, you might feel like your puppy is a fluffy version of a piranha, so gnawing and chewing on raw bones can be helpful. It can relieve some teething pain as well as be an outlet for that seemingly never-ending puppy energy. Bones for puppies should be soft and thawed and served only 2-3 times a week. We don’t want to unbalance the diet and we want to be gentle on those puppy teeth. Some great options are necks and feet (chicken, duck, turkey) and flat rib bones. For now, marrow bones aren’t a great choice because the bone is very dense and hard and the marrow is high in fat which can cause loose stools. Feeding raw bones is an essential element of feeding raw for dental health, and it’s best to teach them early on how to eat bones safely.

Do you feel like you need some support to create the perfect puppy diet? Do you want to know if your dog might have specific requirements (ex: joint support for large breeds?) We’re here for you. Simply ask for a personalized meal plan, it’s free!

SUBMIT A MEAL PLAN REQUEST

6 Months +

6 months to 1 year is better known as the teenage phase! During this phase, you might notice some undesired behaviours are making a comeback, but don’t worry, it will pass and before long you’ll have your dog back. Just keep going, reinforcing the training you’ve done so far.

As far as the diet is concerned, there are a couple changes that can be made during this teenage phase. By now, most of your puppy’s growth is done, and if you haven’t already, you can drop down to two meals per day – one in the morning and one in the evening. Some puppies will naturally drop the middle of the day feed by showing no interest in food, making it easy to start the twice daily feeding regimen.

Most dogs, especially large breeds, continue to grow until 2 years old, but the growth from 6 months onward is much slower and often not really noticeable. At this age, the joints aren’t yet fully developed and there is still room for a lot of muscle mass, commonly called “filling out”. During the 6 months to 2 years timeframe, your puppy could eat up to 5% of its actual body weight, which should still be 2% of their expected adult weight. For example, if your dog is expected to be 50lbs full grown, but is only currently 30lbs, you would still feed roughly 1lb per day.

During this phase, it’s still important to keep a close eye on body condition. If your teenager is on the chunky side, reducing food portions slightly, even for a little while, will help keep those joints healthy. And if you can see and feel ribs, it might be best to increase food portions a little – often as little as an extra 10% in the food bowl is all it takes. We suggest adding a Quail Egg a couple times a week for a small/medium sized dog or 5-6 per week for larger dogs. Some adult dogs will do better on one meal per day as well. Certain breeds, for example the husky, show little to no interest in food and can benefit from having one meal per day.

This teenage phase is also a great time to introduce interactive bowls and toys. Your young pup will need a lot of mental stimulation and bringing out some toys at mealtime is an excellent way to rid some of that excess energy. Simply thaw the food, fill your favorite West Paw Toy or Big Country Raw Lick Mat with raw and refreeze it to offer it frozen at mealtime. This type of mental stimulation can tire your teenage pup even more than physical exercise.

And we want to remind you, if you have any questions about a product we offer, or need suggestions for supplements or a meal plan, never hesitate to reach out. We’re always happy to help make raw feeding a choice you can feel confident in.
SUBMIT A MEAL PLAN REQUEST


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New Kitten? We Can Help With That!

By Julie Lauzon, agr, MSc, Pet Nutrition

8 Weeks – 6 Months

First, Congratulations on Your New Kitten!
You’re at the start of a wonderful adventure and we wish you many years of love and health together. You are reading this because you are a well-informed pet-parent who wish to offer the best nutrition possible to your kitten, and we would like to support you in your journey of raw feeding for the life and health of your cat.

Feeding raw for the lifetime of your cat has many advantages. The very first thing you’ll notice is during the litter training stage that raw fed kittens produce a lot less poop than kibble fed kittens. Not only is there less, but the texture is more firm making clean up much easier, especially in the case of an accident in the house. Because raw has no added salt, most raw fed kittens drink less water making it easier to train them to pee in the litter box. Pointing to other health benefits later in life, there are also more and more studies supporting the early life raw diet for the health of skin and joints, cancer prevention and overall gut health (see blog about weaning kittens onto raw for reference).

During the first few days with your new kitten you may notice a reduced appetite and loose stools. These effects are not necessarily a result of the diet but more likely a result of stress because of the huge life changes. Be patient, things will return to a healthy normal soon. You can offer our Raw Fermented Goat Milk to support any digestive upset and to increase interest in food. Feeding the same proteins as the breeder can also help with the environment adaptation.

What Should I Be Feeding?
Until your kitten is 4-5 months old, the amount of food to offer will seem huge compared to your kitten’s current weight. The reason for this is that there is no such thing as kitten food when feeding raw: it is simply whole food put together with no filler!

Kittens should be fed at will, or 10% of their actual weight, which should correspond roughly to 2.5% of their expected adult body weight. This means that your kitten, usually around 12-16 weeks old is eating their full adult portion of food daily. We recommend feeding 3-4 meals daily until about 6 months of age because they are growing rapidly and need a more constant supply of calories than a full-grown cat. If your kitten seems to be excessively hungry at mealtime and a little on the lean side, the best thing to do is to feed a little more. If you are noticing an increase in body condition score, or an excessively pudgy kitten, reduce a little. Obesity in a kitten is just as harmful as malnutrition.

In raw feeding, variety is key! We recommend a rotation of 3-5 proteins per month, a combination of red meats and poultry. The more variety you offer at a young age, the less likely your cat will become a picky eater or suffer from neophobia – the fear of new food. Offering a huge protein rotation also helps eliminate the risk of developing food intolerances or allergies.

Did you know that you can already be offering raw meaty bones to your kitten? Your breeder may have already offered some meaty bones at 7-8 weeks old because they know that the younger your cat learns how to chew on raw bones correctly and safely, the easier it will be to feed them bones once they’re an adult! Bones for kittens should be soft, thawed and served only 2-3 times a week. We don’t want to unbalance the diet and we want to be gentle on those baby teeth. Some great options are necks and feet (chicken being the smallest). For now, weight baring bones aren’t a great choice because the bone is very dense and hard. Feeding raw bones is an essential element of feeding raw for dental health, and it’s best to teach them early on how to eat bones safely.

Do you feel like you need some support to create the perfect kitten diet? We’re here for you. Simply ask for a personalized meal pan, it’s free!

SUBMIT REQUEST FOR A MEAL PLAN

6 Months

6 months to a year old are better known as the teenage phase! During this phase, you might notice that some undesired behaviours are making a comeback, but don’t worry, it will pass and before long you’ll have your cat back. Just keep going, reinforcing the training and teaching you’ve done so far.

As far as the diet is concerned, there are a couple changes that can be made during this teenage phase. By now, most of your kitten’s growth is done, and if you haven’t already, you can drop down to two meals per day – one in the morning and one in the evening. Some kittens will naturally drop the middle of the day feed by showing no interest in food, making it easy to start the twice daily feeding regimen.

Most cats continue to grow until 1.5 years old but the growth from 6 months onward is much slower and often not noticeable. At this age, the joints aren’t yet fully developed and there is still room for a lot of muscle mass, commonly called “filling out”. During the 6 months to 1 year timeframe, your kitten could eat up to 5% of its actual body weight, which should still be 2.5% of their expected adult weight.

During this phase, it’s still important to keep a close eye on body condition. If your teenager is on the chunky side, reducing food portions slightly, even for a little while, will help keep those joints healthy. And if you can see and feel ribs, it might be best to increase food portions a little – often as little as an extra 10% in the food bowl is all it takes. We suggest adding a Quail Egg a couple times a week as a meal topper to increase calories simply.

This teenage phase is also a great time to introduce interactive bowls and toys. Your kitten will need a lot of mental stimulation and bringing out some toys at mealtime is an excellent way to rid some of that excess energy. Simply thaw the food, fill your favorite West Paw Toy or Big Country Raw Lick Mat with raw and refreeze it to offer it frozen at mealtime. This type of mental stimulation can tire your kitten even more than physical exercise!

And we want to remind you, if you have any questions about a product we offer, or need suggestions for supplements or a meal plan, never hesitate to reach out. We’re always happy to help make raw feeding a choice you can be confident in.

SUBMIT REQUEST FOR A MEAL PLAN


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Weaning Kittens Onto a Raw Diet

By Julie Lauzon, agr, MSc, Pet Nutrition

Starting kittens on raw as soon as possible will give them the best possible start in life. Feeding a raw diet at a young age and during growth can help prevent joint issues1 and cancer2 later in life. The transition from mom’s milk to whole food is a key moment in their life to ensure optimal gut health and weaning the kittens onto a raw diet is the best option.

When starting the weaning process, introducing Raw Fermented Goat Milk can help get kittens interested in trying something other than mother’s milk. If kittens readily enjoy the goat milk, the next step would be to mix a Pure Formula with the goat milk to create a soup consisting of 4 parts milk to 1 part raw – our Pure Turkey or Pure Chicken are great choices for that first raw meal! Progressively, as the kittens continue the weaning process, needing less food from their mother, you can increase the raw portion in the mix, offering less goat milk.

Once the weaning process has begun, it should take roughly 2 weeks of slowly increasing the food portion before they are fully weaned, no longer needing their mother’s milk. Often kittens are fully weaned, requiring no milk from mom by 6-8 weeks. At this stage, the diet should consist mostly of poultry proteins with some red meat additions in moderation. The Fare Game formulations are perfectly balanced meals for growing kittens, offering them all the nutrition they need for proper growth and development.

Kittens Feeding Tips:

  • Take the food out 20 minutes before meal time to let it warm up a little because kittens often prefer food that is not directly from the refrigerator. At room temperature, the food also releases more aromas to keep them interested in their food.
  • When offering red meats (pork, beef or lamb), it’s always a good idea to do so as a portion of the meal rather than the whole meal – for example 75% poultry + 25% red – this is because too much red meat can cause loose stools.
  • Make sure to wash all bowls, utensils and feeding surfaces after meal time.
  • Always supervise meal times.

Around 7-8 weeks, you can start to introduce some soft meal replacement bones – great choices are thawed or frozen chicken necks. Chewing bones offers mental and physical stimulation as well as nutrition for growing kittens. As they are learning to chew on bones, it’s important that we teach them to do so, correctly and safely. Holding the bones during the first chewing session can help kittens learn to chew slowly, and chewing on bones properly is a skill best learned young. Offering bones when your cat is still a kitten gives them the opportunity to learn to tear and gnaw at bones with little risk of choking. At this stage it is not very easy to bite off large pieces that would be considered a choking hazard.

Note: Always supervise all bone chewing sessions and choose bones appropriate for their size and age. Do not feed more than 2 bones per week, or there will be an imbalance in minerals.

It is wise to advise your kitten families that when their new kitten arrives home, it is normal to see some irregular stools the first couple of days, even if the new family has decided to continue with a raw diet. Those loose stools are not diet related – they are related to the stress of moving and being in a new environment, and it will pass. Fermented Raw Goat Milk can help prevent any digestive issues during this life transition.

  1. Grundström, Sari. 2014. Influence of nutrition at young age on canine hip dysplasia in German Shepherd dogs. Helsingfors universitet. https://helda.helsinki.fi/handle/10138/135177
  2. Nu­tri­tional factors and neo­plasia in dogs: a data as­so­ci­ation study on the role of early age diet https://www2.helsinki.fi/sites/default/files/atoms/files/poster_nutritional_factors_and_neoplasia_in_dogs.pdf


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Weaning Puppies Onto a Raw Diet

By Julie Lauzon, agr, MSc, Pet Nutrition

Starting puppies on raw as soon as possible will give them the best start possible in life. Feeding a raw diet at a young age and during growth can help to prevent joint issues1 and cancer2 later in life. The transition from mom’s milk to whole food is a key moment in their life to ensure optimal gut health and weaning the puppies onto a raw diet is the best option.

When starting the weaning process, introducing Raw Fermented Goat Milk can get puppies interested in trying something other than their mother’s milk.  If puppies readily enjoy the goat milk, the next step would be to mix a Pure Formula with the goat milk to create a soup consisting of 4 parts milk to 1 part raw – our Pure Turkey or Pure Chicken are great choices for that first raw meal! Progressively, as the puppies continue the weaning process, needing less food from their mother, you can increase the raw portion in the mix, offering less goat milk.

Once the weaning process has begun, it should take roughly 2 weeks of slowly increasing their food portions before they are fully weaned, no longer needing their mother’s milk. Often puppies are fully weaned, requiring no milk from mom by 6-7 weeks. At this stage, the diet should consist mostly of poultry proteins with some red meat additions in moderation. Chicken, Turkey and Duck Dinner formulations are perfectly balanced meals for growing puppies, offering them all the nutrition they need for proper growth and development.

Puppy Feeding Tips:

  • Take the food out 20 minutes before meal time to let it warm up a little because puppies often prefer food that is not directly from the refrigerator. At room temperature, the food also releases more aromas to keep puppies interested in their food.
  • When offering red meats (pork, beef or lamb), it’s always a good idea to do so as a portion of the meal rather than the whole meal – for example 75% poultry + 25% red – this is because too much red meat can cause loose stools.
  • Make sure to wash all bowls, utensils and feeding surfaces after meal time.
  • Always supervise meal times.

Around 7-8 weeks, you can start to introduce soft meal replacement bones – great choices are thawed or frozen chicken or duck necks – the size of your puppies will determine the bone you choose. Marrow bones at this stage are not recommended as they are a load bearing bone and far too hard for their puppy teeth. Also, the marrow is very high in fat and can cause loose stools and an upset tummy.

Chewing bones offers mental and physical stimulation as well as nutrition for growing puppies. As they are learning to chew on bones, it’s important that we teach them to do so, correctly and safely. Holding the bones during the first chewing session can help puppies learn to chew slowly, and chewing on bones properly is a skill best learned young. Offering bones as meal replacements or recreational chews (always supervised) when your dog is still a puppy gives them the opportunity to learn to tear and gnaw at bones with little risk of choking. At this stage it is not very easy to bite off large pieces that would be considered a choking hazard.

Often, when bones are offered to dogs that were never taught as puppies to chew and gnaw, being such a high value reward, bones are swallowed whole or in larger pieces, increasing the risk of choking or bowel obstruction.

Note: Always supervise all bone chewing sessions and choose bones appropriate for their size and age. Do not feed more than 2 bones per week, or there will be an imbalance in minerals.

It is wise to advise your puppy families that when their new puppy arrives home, it is normal to see some irregular stools the first couple of days, even if the new family has decided to continue with the raw diet. Those loose stools are not diet related – they are related to the stress of moving and being in a new environment, and it will pass. Fermented Raw Goat Milk and Pumpkin Puree or Powder can help prevent any digestive issues during this transition.

  1. Grundström, Sari. 2014. Influence of nutrition at young age on canine hip dysplasia in German Shepherd dogs. Helsingfors universitet. https://helda.helsinki.fi/handle/10138/135177
  2. Nu­tri­tional factors and neo­plasia in dogs: a data as­so­ci­ation study on the role of early age diet https://www2.helsinki.fi/sites/default/files/atoms/files/poster_nutritional_factors_and_neoplasia_in_dogs.pdf


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Feeding the Pregnant Cat

By Julie Lauzon, agr, MSc, Pet Nutrition

Just one of the great things about choosing to feed a species appropriate raw diet is that it can be fed to cats of all ages and through all life stages, even during pregnancy and lactation. A few minor changes can make raw feeding easy for you and enjoyable for your pregnant cat.

During the first two trimesters of pregnancy (the first 6 weeks), very little needs to change to the diet. You may find certain proteins are more enjoyable for your cat and little additions like goat milk make the meals more appealing when your girl’s appetite may not be normal. Generally, toward the end of the second trimester (5-6 weeks), when kittens start to grow more quickly, your girl may have an increased appetite. It is a good idea to feed more frequently throughout the day in three meals, often times 1.5 – 2 times her usual daily portion.

By the third trimester (week 6 and onward) food should be plentiful and frequent (at will), while carefully managing weight to prevent excess weight gain. The size of the litter, if known, can help to determine feeding portions. For example, if your cat is carrying a litter of 3, she would probably need to eat less than if she was carrying a litter of 9.

In the final stage of feline pregnancy, it is important that the calcium intake isn’t too high, and offering extra Vitamin B to assist those developing kittens can be beneficial. This can be done by increasing the organ meat intake and feeding recipes with a lower bone content. Offering our Beef Organ Blend and more red meats like Pure Beef, Lamb and Pork are great choices. We do not recommend feeding meal replacement bones such as necks and feet at this time. When nearing the end of pregnancy, it is best to offer multiple meals (3-4 daily) as the kittens are growing rapidly and taking up a lot room, making it difficult for mom to eat large meals.

Feeding a Nursing Mom

Once the kittens are born, it is important to increase calcium intake to help support milk production. This is when some extra meal replacement bones are a great choice along with higher calcium meal options like chicken, turkey and duck proteins. The extra organ meat is not necessary any longer and you may find that offering it may cause loose stools.

During the first weeks of your kittens lives, your cat will need a lot of calories to turn into milk to feed her kittens, and it is important to feed her often throughout the day. For some cats, at will feedings are great but for others, 3-5 meals are sufficient and it’s not uncommon for a new mom to eat up to 2.5 times her normal food amount daily. Just as in the last trimester of her pregnancy, the size of the litter will determine food portions. If she’s feeding 2-3 kittens, chances are that she will need much less food than if she were nursing a litter of 10. During this time, you’ll need to keep a very close eye on body condition – feeding enough to ensure mom continues to produce milk to feed her kittens but not so much that she’s gaining excess weight.

If she struggles to maintain a healthy body condition, you can easily increase calorie intake by adding extra fat to the diet. Some great options are Quail Eggs and whole sardines fed in addition to the regular meal portion.

When it’s time to start weaning, it’s very important to slowly reduce food intake. This will slow down mom’s milk production, preparing for complete weaning.

Note: During pregnancy and lactation always adjust feeding portions according to body condition score.


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Feeding the Pregnant Dog

By Julie Lauzon, agr, MSc, Pet Nutrition

Just one of the great things about choosing to feed a species appropriate raw diet is that it can be fed to dogs of all ages and through all life stages, even during pregnancy and lactation. A few minor changes can make raw feeding easy for you and enjoyable for your pregnant dog.

During the first two trimesters of pregnancy (the first 6 weeks), very little needs to change to the diet. You may find certain proteins are more enjoyable for your dog and additions like goat milk make the meals more appealing when your girl’s appetite may not be normal. Generally, toward the end of the second trimester (5-6 weeks) when puppies start to grow more quickly, your girl may have an increased appetite. It is a good idea to feed more frequently throughout the day in three meals, often times 1.5 – 2 times her usual daily portion.

By the third trimester (week 6 and onward) food should be plentiful and frequent (at will), while carefully managing weight to prevent excess weight gain. The size of the litter, if known, can help to determine feeding portions. For example, if your dog is carrying a litter of 3, she would probably need to eat less than if she was carrying a litter of 11.

In the final stage of canine pregnancy, it is important that the calcium intake isn’t too high, and offering extra vitamin B to assist those developing puppies can be beneficial. This can be done by increasing the organ meat intake and feeding recipes with a lower bone content. Offering our Beef Organ Blend and more red meats like beef, lamb and pork are great choices.  We do not recommend feeding meal replacement bones such as necks and feet at this time. When nearing the end of pregnancy, it is best to offer multiple meals (3-4 daily) as the puppies are growing rapidly and taking up a lot room, making it difficult for mom to eat large meals.

Feeding a Nursing Mom

Once the puppies are born, it is important to increase calcium intake to help support milk production. This is when some extra meal replacement bones are a great choice along with higher calcium meal options like chicken, turkey and duck dinners. The extra organ meat is not necessary any longer and you may find that offering it may cause loose stools.

During the first weeks of your puppies lives, your dog will need a lot of calories to turn into milk to feed her puppies, and it is important to feed her often throughout the day. For some dogs, at will feedings are great but for others, 3-5 meals are sufficient and it’s not uncommon for a new mom to eat up to 2.5 times her normal food amount daily. Just as in the last trimester of her pregnancy, the size of the litter will determine food portions. If she’s feeding 2-3 puppies, chances are that she will need much less food than if she were nursing a litter of 10. During this time, you’ll need to keep a very close eye on body condition – feeding enough to ensure mom continues to produce milk to feed her puppies but not too much that she’s gaining excess weight.

If she struggles to maintain a healthy body condition, you can easily increase calorie intake by adding extra fat to the diet. Some great options are Quail Eggs  or Raw Fermented Goat Milk fed in addition to the regular meal portion.

When it’s time to start weaning, it’s very important to slowly reduce food intake.  This will slow down mom’s milk production, preparing for complete weaning.

Note: During pregnancy and lactation, always adjust feeding portions according to body condition score.


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